[Measurement Check] Currently wearing 34A, cups gap and ride up. Calculator says 28C.
(I am so glad this sub exists! First post here, sorry if it's a bit wordy.)
It is possible I have measured inaccurately, because I only had a phone charger cord and one of those clip-on-your-belt, semi-rigid measuring tape things that don't curve well.
Measurements:
snug underbust - 26"
tight underbust - 24.5"
bust standing - 29"
bust leaned over - 32"
bust lying down - 30"
For reference, I am 5'6", 100-105 lbs, I am 30 years old, and I have never been pregnant. I have also been the same weight for at least 15 years.
My breasts tend to be wider-set (my left/bigger one being moreso), and I have zero cleavage in the middle. They also seem to be set fairly low for their size. I am not sure if the roots are wide or narrow, tall or short. My breasts are kinda... skinny? but when I lean forward 90 degrees they look like triangles pointing at the floor.
I am definitely full on bottom and nearly empty on top (one is 1/5 and the other is closer to 2/4 but still kinda slouchy, based on the fullness chart).
I think I am somewhere between being of average projection and slightly shallow, based solely on pictures. Most of my breast tissue is below the nipple or even with it. My breasts are not circular from any angle and are basically cone-shaped with rounded lower-sides, if that makes sense. My guess might be that I am more projected with tall roots, but I could be wrong. This concept is new to me.
The most comfortable bras I've found are 34A from Victoria's Secret (and I've been wearing these for years), always on the tightest band setting. However, I have never had a molded cup (in any brand/size/style I've tried, including these) that did NOT gap on the top while fitting okay on the bottom. These girls are kinda lazy - there is a definite slope to the outer tops of them which causes gapping, but there is also usually a sizeable cup gap toward the gore of the bra. Where cleavage is for most women, I have ribcage (more about my ribs below). It bothers me that the outline of my bra is usually visible beneath clothing.
My bras never stay in place, and have a tendency to ride up in the front more often than the back - practically every time I move I have to readjust so that the wires are back where they should be. I've always just assumed I don't have enough boob to keep it from sliding up.
The calculator points me toward 28C. While that size may in fact be suitable, I can't imagine that I could fill out the depth of the cups, if I don't even fill out a 34A completely... Perhaps if the cups are more shallow and wider.
It has been a long time since I tried other A/B sizes, but from what I remember, 32B felt like the cups were too big, while 32A seemed like the cups were too close together and narrow, but still usually gapped on top, and the band felt too tight and caused some side/back bulging. I have never tried a bra with a band size smaller than 32 for that reason, despite my measurements. Maybe I'm buying poorly constructed bras, or these are not properly sized bras.
My ribcage tends to stick out quite a bit in general. I had never heard of rib flares before all this research I've been doing for the past day, but I seem to particularly flare around the lower left side of my sternum. That, met with my wider set and skinny frame, makes many underwire bras uncomfortable, as they tend to dig into my rib there. I have taken to wearing bralettes all the time lately, because they are way more comfortable than what I'd been wearing, they stay in place better, and they don't have the gapping or wrinkling issue if I wear the right shape/size. Also because I am broke.
I do, however, want to have the option to wear underwire bras for many outfits and occasions that bralettes aren't ideal for. And if the issues I have with discomfort are due to improper fit, I want to resolve them!
I appreciate any feedback or suggestions, truly. I know I threw a lot out there. Either I'm super weird/hard to fit, or I think entirely too much. Hah.