Barbeito Bastardo “Quatro Pipas”

Tasted blind.

Pale amber.

Orange and lemon zest, star anise, thyme, dried papaya and figs, Greek Orthodox incense, touch spirited.

Exceptionally high acidity level, at or near 7TA. Surprisingly high sugar level for that acidity (65RS?), so a medium dry/Verdelho style overall with a streak of bitterness that additionally balances the sugar. Alcohol is not quite at 20%, but clearly fortified high.

Citrus-forward with intense caramelised orange and grapefruit zest, candied ginger (lifted), tarragon, a touch of fine tannins (like orange wine, pithy), oolong tea. Finishes lifted and a touch drying.

This is where it gets tricky — it’s quite clearly a Madeira of some quality if not particularly advanced age (>10yo but not a Frasqueira), but neither the colour (absence of green streaks) nor the texture (tannins) are commensurate with a white grape. But at the same time the acidity level is too high for Tinta Negra. Having eliminated the impossible, however improbable it is, it just has to be a Bastardo.